In vino veritas? Patooie.
Fakery born of greed has infested the wine trade pretty much since the first grapes were fermented. The Canterbury Tales warned of doctored juice; Thomas Jefferson, America's first famous oenophile, probably got burned by Bordeaux merchants who added cider and vegetable dye to "improve" the product.
But as Benjamin Wallace illustrates in The Billionaire's Vinegar, his splendid account of an international wine scandal of recent vintage, it was some wealthy collectors in the 1980s and 1990s who really got hosed.
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